The Truth About the “Dewy” Look
As a makeup artist, I get a lot of repeat requests. Smokey eyes, bronzed skin, and blacked winged liner are three of the most popular. Lately, I’ve been getting a lot of requests for “dewy skin.” So I suppose this is perfect time to tell you the real scoop on that look.
The idea behind dewy skin is that it looks young, fresh, and not made up. But like most makeup looks that people think look “natural,” it actually takes time, the correct products, and a few other factors you may not have access to to get it “perfect”.
The best way to get the dewy look is to have a good base to start with. And by that, I mean good skin. Dry, uneven, dehydrated skin is not going to work here. If you regularly cleanse, exfoliate (this is huge), and moisturize, then you have a better chance of achieving the look. This is a good habit to have whether you want the dewy look or not, so get to it!
Before we go on, I want to preface this by saying that if you have oily skin, this is probably not the look for you. Adding shine to an oily skin is going to make you look, well, greasy. If you have oily skin and you’re using–but not over-using–oil absorbing and mattifying products, you probably still have some of your skin’s natural oils coming through anyway, so you may look dewy without trying. If that sounds like you, you can stop reading right here (unless my writing has you entranced).
If your skin is dry, normal, or normal to dry, and you have a consistent cleanse-exfoliate-moisturize routine, read on. If you have dry skin, you can start with a pretty thick moisturizer (like Benefit Total Moisture Facial Cream). Normal or normal to dry skin, just use whatever moisturizer works for you (Ole Henriksen makes great moisturizers for a variety of skin types and concerns). You could also start with a serum like Tarte’s Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Illuminating Serum. This stuff gives some serious luminosity. I would avoid oil-free moisturizers for this look.
The next step would be a luminizing lotion or primer. Illamsqua makes a fabulous primer for dewy looks, called the Satin Primer. The Tarina Tarantino Pearl Glow Primer in Pearl is a good one too. You can get both at Sephora.
Next, you’ll want to use a sheer foundation. I recommend MAC Face & Body Foundation. It leaves the skin with a very dewy finish, and feels lightweight.
Apply a liquid or cream highlighter to the cheekbones and browbones (and above the Cupid’s Bow, if you’re feeling daring). I like NARS the Multiple in Copacabana for light to medium skin, and MAC Cream Colour Base in Improper Copper for medium to dark skin. Use translucent powder only under the eyes and around the nose. You don’t want to over powder, because you’ll mattify the skin, which is the opposite of the dewy look.
Use a cream blush for cheek color, as they tend to have more of a “dewy” finish than powder blushes. I like the Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Blushes.
On lips, use a sheer gloss, like Lancome Juicy tubes. You want something lightweight and almost watery looking, if that makes sense. I’d skip lipliner if you want to stay true to the look.
Since the rest of the face has that glowy, dewy quality, I prefer to “anchor it” with defined eyes (as Hayden and Camilla did in the pictures above). You can go dewy all over, like the model above did, but I don’t think that look translates well in real life for most people (it’s different for runway or editorial, and I’ll get into). So for eyes, I would go with a slightly shimmery, natural color or a metallic shadow in the brown or gold family, and black liner at the upper lashline and waterline. Go ahead and contour the eye with a matte color slightly darker than your skintone. (If you have hooded eyes, skip this step.)
And you’re done! Feeling dewy? No? Well, let me tell you truth about dewy looks…
When you see a dewy-faced actress onscreen, please know that she had the advantage of professional lighting, camera lenses, and a makeup artist to touch her up after each take. That celeb on the red carpet? She spent hours with a makeup artist beforehand and may even have one with her to touch her up throughout the event. And there’s a good chance she has the money to spend on high quality skincare and esthetic services. Same deal with models, who are also often genetic freaks with amazing skin.
And the models and celebs you see in magazines? Please, they have it made. A pro makeup artist, photographer, and lighting, constant touchups during the shoot, and Photoshop after. Anyone can look dewy after all of that.
So my point is, don’t think you’re doing it wrong if your dewy makeup doesn’t come out like Hayden’s or Camilla’s. Just use this post and those pictures as guidelines and do your best. You’ll do great :)