Jergens Natural Glow for Face Tips

Genetics are a funny thing, aren’t they? I am 75% Italian and only 25% Irish, but I’m usually the second or third lightest shade in a foundation line. Throw my dark hair and eyebrows into the mix, and I look even lighter than I am. (When I’m wearing black, my father likes to call me Elvira. Can’t say I like that.) I’m not saying light skin is a bad thing–look at beauties like Julianne Moore, Emma Stone and Dita Von Teese–but I think I look best with a little color on my face. I don’t sunbathe or use tanning booths, and I don’t find it practical to spray tan regularly, so I use Jergens Natural Glow. I use the face and body versions, but for this post, I will be talking about the face version.

I’ve picked up a few tips along the way that I thought might be helpful. Here goes:

Exfoliate. Before your initial application of the product, exfoliate your face and neck. Any kind of tanning product will work better if you have sloughed off the dead skin cells first. If not, the product may “stick” to the cells, leaving you with a very attractive patchy look.

Moisturize twice each day. Jergens Natural Glow for face will last longer if you moisturize morning and night. This is a skincare essential anyway, so unless you are targeting a specific issue that requires more or less moisturizing each day, two times is the magic number.

Avoid applying to smile lines, if you have them. I’ve found that any product I put on my face will eventually settle in to my smile lines and something about the shimmer and pigmentation in the Natural Glow accentuates the lines. It’s any easy fix though–just don’t apply it to those areas. Smile lines–this is the punishment we get for being happy, huh?

Mix with moisturizer when applying to your neck. Necks are tricky. Many of us have some lines or creases there, and much like the smile lines, this product can settle into those lines. Applying a thin layer of moisturizer first takes care of the issue.

Apply it at night, or well before makeup. I don’t use this as pre-makeup moisturizer because I don’t think it’s moisturizing enough, and I’m not sure it will react well to all face makeup. It’s not a problem if it’s completely absorbed, but if it’s still tacky, wait a little longer. That’s why I tend to do it at night.

Adjust your foundation/tinted moisturizer. This is a tanning product, so your foundation shade is going to change. That’s one of the reasons I always suggest having a couple of foundations in your makeup bag. That way you can darken and lighten the shades (by mixing them) if your skin changes from sunless tanner or the sun. It’s not a drastic change with Jergens Natural Glow for Face, but you might go up a half a shade or a full shade.

That’s it! Not too complicated, right? I think it’s worth it and I really do love the product. After a few days of using it, I always feel like my skin looks good enough to forgo face makeup if I want to. The shimmer that it contains is subtle, but true to its name, gives you some glow. And something about being tan seems to even out the skin (although a real tan actually does the opposite, in the long run). If you are feeling winter pale or feel like your skin is looking dull, give this a try.

Have a beautiful day 🙂

It’s a Crime Not to Prime

A kit essential.

 

It’s no secret that I love eye primer (specifically Too Faced Shadow Insurance). Eye primer gives you a good base, keeps your eyeshadow and eyeliner on longer and minimizes creasing. Unless I am going to change someone’s eye makeup soon after (like for a photo or sometimes film shoot), I put this ish on everyone.

Like with any product, how you do it is as important as the product itself. The eye priming routine will take you roughly 10 seconds, but let me break it down so you get the best results.

1) Dispense enough product for both eyes. An amount the size of about a grain of rice is plenty.

2) Use your ring finger to apply and blend it in. The ring finger is the weakest, and the skin around the eye is some of thinnest on the body. Using a gentle touch–pat it, so don’t go at it like you are trying to remove an ink stain–will prevent tugging. Repeated tugging on that gentle skin can cause premature wrinkles.

3) Concentrate the primer on your lids, but carry it into the crease and onto the browbone too. Even if you are not going to put shadow on those areas, it will even out your skintone (especially important if you are fair-skinned and can see veins or discoloration on your eyelids).

4) Let your primer dry completely before applying your eye makeup. This is a very important step. If you do not wait until the primer has dried (absorbed into your skin), you will be wiping it off as you apply your eye makeup, canceling out any effect. And if you apply eyeshadow before the primer has dried, the shadow will stick to the product and look patchy. That is why eye primer is always my first step in my makeup routine. I apply that, then face moisturizer and lip balm. The time it takes to apply the moisturizer and lip balm is the amount of time needed for the eye primer to absorb.

5) As a final step to make sure you primer has dried, run your finger, a makeup sponge or a fluffy eyeshadow brush lightly over it. This will smooth it down and wipe off any excess that may be hanging around, which could actually backfire and cause creasing.

That’s it! Easy, right? Using a primer and applying it correctly will make a big difference in your makeup routine.

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Eye Makeup Smudges, Be Gone!

I like a bit of a messy eye makeup look, I really do. But it has to be done right, and it’s not for everyone, or for every situation. If you are working a professional job outside of the beauty industry or something creative/artistic, you might need more of a clean makeup look during work hours. And nothing kills an otherwise polished face like eye makeup that looks like it is slowly melting off.

So many of my clients tell me they are fighting a losing battle with chronic smudged eyeliner or migrating mascara. Many give up and abandon eye makeup altogether. But ladies, ladies, ladies–you need not despair! There are a few factors that could be causing the issue, and some things you can do to fix it. I would like to help you identify the root of the problem and win this battle.

Let’s start with eye primer. I think anyone who wears any type of eye makeup should use an eye primer. It is the first step in any makeup application I do (unless I know I will be changing the eye makeup soon after), and I wear eye primer every day. The natural oils on your eyelids can make eyeliners become slippery and smudge-bound, but having a primer there creates a barrier. I have tried a ton of them and my favorite is still Too Faced Shadow Insurance (at Sephora).

If you wear eyeliner and think it may be the source of smudging for you, let’s talk about that. Is it a liquid liner? Gel? Pencil? If it’s a good quality liquid or gel eyeliner (and I will address that in the Crappy Products section), it should not smudge once it has set. If it’s a good quality pencil liner, try tracing it with an eyeshadow in the same color. This will set the liner, keeping it in place.

For those of you who like the look of eyeliner and mascara only, this part is for you. Even with a good primer and eyeliner, you may still experience smudging if you don’t wear eyeshadow (usually just with pencil liners, especially when they have not been traced with an eyeshadow). This smudging is something us makeup pros call “transfer,” and the transfer I am referring to happens on your eyelid, not underneath the eye. Depending on your eye shape, the thickness of the liner drawn and the amount of oils on your eyelid, your eyeliner can transfer from your upper lashline to the crease of your eye. Super easy fix though, don’t you worry. After applying your eye primer but before applying your eyeliner, apply a matte eyeshadow that is the same color as your skin all over your lid and into the crease. Apply your pencil liner, then set it with an eyeshadow.  If you don’t do those two things, the oils from your eyelid may breakdown your eyeliner when you look up, which causes the transfer. Having a primer and eyeshadow there blocks those oils from wreaking havoc on your eyeliner. And choosing a matte eyeshadow in the same color as your skin will still give you that no-eyeshadow look.

Many people think that their regular mascara is what causes the smudging, so they switch to waterproof. Waterproof may solve the problem, but it’s likely to cause another one–eyelash breakage. Waterproof mascaras tend to be harsh and in my opinion, are not made for everyday use. If you find that your mascara migrates, whether from watery eyes or unknown causes, try using a beauty tubes mascara (like Blinc Mascara or Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara–the latter is obviously just for the bottom lashes). Beauty tubes mascara is applied exactly like a regular mascara–it’s just the formulation that is different. Instead of coating your lashes, beauty tubes encapsulate them. It’s the difference between a cardigan and a wetsuit, you feel me? The point is, beauty tubes mascara stays on until you physically remove it with water and a gentle pressing motion.

If you switch to a beauty tubes mascara and that still doesn’t work (I have never seen or heard of that happening), I give you permission to wear waterproof mascara on your bottom lashes only. Unless you are full on crying (like when watching Long Island Medium or thinking about the current state of hip hop), any tearing will most likely only effect your bottom lashes. So using waterproof mascara on the top lashes on a daily basis is probably not necessary.

There is another big culprit for smudging, which could be root of the problem if you wear undereye concealer. Undereye concealer–unless it has been set with powder–eats at away at mascara, causing the mascara to smudge when the lower lashes touch the concealer. Applying a thin layer of powder over the undereye concealer before applying lower lash mascara could be the fix you need. The powder becomes a barrier between the concealer and mascara, so no damage can be done.

Do you regularly line your waterline with a dark eyeliner? If so, this could be causing the smudging. Our eyes naturally water during the day, so even the best waterline liner will eventually wear away. But where does it go, you ask? Check your tearducts and if they’re clear, look under your eyes. Find it? You can stop this runaway liner from journeying to under your eyes by applying a very thin line of eyeshadow in the same color family at the lower lashline, as close to the lash roots as you can get. This shadow will “catch” the waterline liner, absorbing it before it gets any further.

If you have tried some or all of these tips and your eye makeup is still smudging, you may have a case of Crappy Products. Crappy Products can be found in all makeup lines, both low and high end, but not surprisingly, the cheapest of the cheap are often Grade A Crap. (However, I have found that drugstore waterproof mascaras–Maybelline Falsies Volum Express is my fave–outperform the higher end waterproof mascaras.) Crappy eyeliner pencils seem to be the worst offenders, but there are some gel and liquid liners that flake off then melt into little smudges. If you suspect you might be using a Crappy eyeliner pencil, I recommend switching to Top Shop Kohl liners; a Crappy liquid liner could be replaced by MAC LiquidLast eyeliner; and a Crappy gel liner could be replaced by MAC Fluidline or Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Liner.

You do not have to resign yourself to living with smudged eye makeup, nor do you have to give it up completely. It may take some time to pinpoint the cause, but once you have done that, you can turn things around. Don’t know where to start? I would first try the eye primer (use it even if it doesn’t solve the smudging problem–more about that in a future post). If you wear dark liner on the waterline, try the eyeshadow-at-the-lower-lashline trick next. Still smudging? It’s time to start powdering your undereye area after concealing. Issue not resolved? Go ahead and get yourself a beauty tubes mascara. If all of these methods fail, it’s time to look inward and ask yourself, Do I buy Crappy Products? If so, get yourself some quality products. They might be more expensive than what you normally use, but if you want or need to have a professional image, I think it’s worth it.

I do want to add that even if you are using the best products in combination with the right techniques, you might see a tiny bit of smudging after 10-12+ hours. That’s why God gave us pinky fingers–to wipe away any trace of rogue eye makeup. No one looks perfect all day, folks. Touchups are necessary. Your 6:00am makeup will need to be refreshed at 6:00pm, and you may have some small smudges that only you can notice. That’s normal. What I want to do is get you away from those super obvious smudges that distract people when you are talking to them. And hopefully this post can help with that. Because, dear Lord, people are going to have a hard time listening to your flawless presentation/perfect sales pitch/inspired lesson plan if you look like Ke$ha.

Questions? Get at me.

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Big Up to the Deep Set Crew

There are a lot of great things that come with my Italian heritage. A huge, loving family; chicken parm so good it will make you cry; Italian swears that are fun to say; the good hair gene–I could go on and on. But being Italian also means I have The Curse of the Deep Set Eyes (quick! cornicelli up!) Like so many people of Mediterranean descent, my eyes are set pretty far back. My brother says this is a good thing, because it protects the eyeballs if you fall on your face (always the optimist, that Mikey B!). In terms of photography though, it’s a definite disadvantage.

Before you get into this, let’s see if you are part of the Deep Set Crew (not to be confused with the Dipset crew). See the celebrity pictures included in this post? (Please excuse the formatting, not my strength.) Do their eyes look similar to your’s? If so, read on, my friend.

Let’s start this by saying a little prayer of thanks for those of us that have two eyes that can see. I think it’s important to give thanks for those things we might take for granted (even when it’s not November, folks!). Let me also point out that there is no “bad” eye shape. But there are ways to work with what you’ve got to make things look best in photos, if you are concerned with that.

If you’re rollin’ with the Deep Set Crew, you have probably seen a million photos of you that look nothing like you. That’s because cameras pick up on light and shadows, and if your eyes are deep set, the light and shadows are going to make your eyes look like they are pushed back even further in your face. Typically not a flattering look, and probably not at all what you look like in person. But these deep set eye makeup tips for photography can help you out, or at least they have for my clients and I.

First thing you want to do is avoid applying dark eyeshadow colors on your eyelids. This is a big, indisputable rule in makeup–dark colors make things recede, or look smaller. Putting a dark color on your lids is going to make your eyes look even further set back. Go with a lighter color for photography–even some shimmer is fine–and this will help bring the bottom part of your eye forward. Try a shade that is a couple of shades lighter than your skin (matte is preferable if you have very large eyes that you want to minimize, otherwise shimmer is fine). MAC Brulee eyeshadow works well on light skin, MAC Wedge is good on medium skin and MAC Era is pretty on dark skin. But use whatever works for you!

Don’t put a dark eyeshadow in the crease (or socket, if you prefer) of your eye. I would go as far as to say don’t put ANY color there. This has the same effect as putting a dark color on the lid–it is just going to make your eyes look more sunken in in photos. If you want to put some color there, what you can do–and this takes some practice–is apply a light-medium color (I usually use a light brown) slightly above the crease. It should hit the very bottom of your browbone, but not in an 80s way. Blend it well. If you don’t have much space between your crease and brows, or this sounds too advanced to you, skip it.

Avoid highlighting the browbone. I know many magazine articles and YouTube tutorials tell you to highlight the browbone, but this is really not for everyone. Highlighting the browbone is just going to make the bottom part of your eye look even further back in comparison.

If you have a lot of eyelid space (and many people with deep set eyes do–look at the Cher picture as an example), you can draw a medium or thick line of eyeliner at the top lashline. This is really more about how much lid space you have, but since I have found that so many Deep Set crew members have large eyes, I had to include that. I do recommend softening the liner by either using a shadow, smudging a pencil liner or tracing a gel liner with shadow, as it gives that soft focus effect that is generally more modern and flattering in photos. Topshop Kohl liners are awesome and easy to smudge.

I wouldn’t suggest going too dark or heavy with any liner or shadow at the lower lashline, as this can highlight the deep set factor too. A soft, thin line is flattering, but anything too dark or too heavy won’t do you any favors on camera.

People with deep set eyes are often also blessed with dark circles, which make the whole eye area look even more recessed. So it’s really important to correct and cover these circles. If they are very dark, you will need to color correct with a peach (light and medium skins) or an orange (dark skin) corrector. Follow with a concealer one shade lighter than the rest of your face (MAC Select Coverups are great), and if necessary, a small amount of brightening concealer (like Clinique Airbrush Concealer). Set with powder.

Mascara on top lashes is a must for deep set eyes (fine to do bottom too, just don’t channel Tammy Faye Bakker). Lengthening mascara is a Do, as it gives the illusion of pulling the eyes forward. Don’t believe me? Give it a try. Mascara on one eye, no mascara on the other. Which one wins this round? Dior Diorshow, the original, is still my fave for thickening and lengthening.

The next two tips could be controversial, as they are purely from my experience. I have never heard of another makeup artist/watched a YouTube tutorial suggesting these things for deep set eyes.

I love black liner on the waterline, I really do, but in photos, I swear it makes the eyes look more deep set. I recommend an off-white liner if you want to line the waterline.

This last one isn’t even eye makeup–cheekbone highlight. Don’t do it. Think about how close the cheekbones are to the eye sockets. Highlighting the cheekbones, in my opinion, automatically sets the eyes back more.

So, those are my tips. If you are a fan of the infamous selfie, try doing your makeup this way, and then the opposite. Then see which picture makes your eyes look more deep set. I think you will find these tips will generally make for a prettier you in pictures.

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Fake It ‘Til You Make It: How To Do Makeup Like a Pro

From what I can tell, the average non-makeup artist feels that she is lacking in the makeup skills department. If I had a nickel for every time someone said to me “I have no idea how to put on makeup!,” I could buy a Diorshow mascara every day for life. But it’s okay! I only know how to do this stuff because it is my job. I couldn’t do your job. Being a nurse? Professor? Yoga instructor? I wouldn’t have a clue where to start.

But I can help you. I want to help you. As corny as it sounds, I feel that it is one of my life’s missions to help women learn how to apply their makeup. Not because I can’t stand seeing a mascara smudge or an unblended foundation line, but because I know that when people look good, it gives them a little extra confidence. I don’t think my job is something that makes a huge impact on society, but I do think I have some skills that I can pass on to help people feel better about themselves. And although I’m not saving lives or curing diseases, knowing that I can possibly make someone feel a little better is something that makes me happy.

Okay, enough of that. Below are some of the pro tips that will really make a difference in your makeup routine.

1) Skincare: This deserves a blog post of its own, since it is so essential. Know your skin type and buy skincare products formulated for that type, with ingredients that will tackle any problems you are experiencing. Because everyone’s makeup–with no exceptions–looks better when their skin is in good shape.

2) Let the liquid/cream products you apply to your face–moisturizer, primer, concealer, pore minimizer, foundation, etc.–absorb for a minute or two before you apply the next liquid/cream product. If you don’t do that, you might be wiping away some of the last layer you applied. This is why I jump back and forth around the face when I’m applying makeup. I want to give the products on one area of the face time to absorb (for example, I apply primer after the eyes are done, then apply mascara, then go in with foundation).

3) Fill in your eyebrows, then brush through with a spooly. Unless you have very full brows, your brows can probably benefit from a little brow powder or brow pencil. Many people have sparseness at the front of the brows, and a brow that “stops short”–another common problem–can easily be corrected. Eyebrows do have a huge impact on your face (imagine how you would look without them!) so it is worth putting in a little effort here.

4) Find a foundation (or tinted moisturizer) that matches your skin. If you get any sun at all during the year, it’s a good idea to have two shades. That allows you to mix and customize as your skin gets darker or lighter throughout the seasons. A good professional makeup artist will always match your foundation to your skin, so getting the right match is huge. If your ears are visible or you are prone to getting red ears from blushing or when you are hot, apply a tiny bit of foundation to your ears too. And if you’re one of the many whose neck is lighter than your face, carry your foundation down onto your neck. Just use what is left on your brush after you apply your face foundation. (If you prefer to apply with hands, dispense a small amount more for your neck).

5) Don’t use a shimmery bronzer (or any bronzer, for that matter) all over your face. If it’s shimmery, applying all over the face will probably make you look shiny, and a matte bronzer all over can look muddy. Bronzers can be used to fake a bronze glow, or to contour. For detailed bronzer how to’s, take a look at some YouTube tutorials.

6) Blend blend blend. One of the biggest differences between an amateur makeup job and a professional makeup job is the amount of blending that goes into it. If you are someone who wears (or wants to wear) more than one eyeshadow color, do yourself a favor and get a 217 brush from MAC. This fluffy blending brush will make a world of difference. When blending eyeshadow, don’t blend the entire area. Just blend the edges, where the shadow meets your skin or another shadow.

7) Always lightly powder over your undereye concealer before applying mascara. If you do this and use a quality mascara, you will not get smudges. The oils from concealer eat away at mascara, so applying powder there adds a protective barrier.

8) Don’t be afraid to blush. Having a little cheek color will make you look polished and awake. If you use a foundation, tinted moisturizer, or concealer on your cheeks, you will want to add some color back in so your makeup doesn’t look flat.

9) If you want your lipcolor to last all day, line and fill in your lips with a lipliner first (in a shade that matches your lips or that matches the lipcolor). This gives the lipcolor something to adhere to so it will stay on longer.

10) Want to make your eyes look bigger, brighter, or more awake? Apply an off-white eyeliner pencil to the inner lower rim (waterline) of your eyes. It makes a huge difference.

There you go! Now no one will know that you are not a pro makeup artist…

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Are You Blushing?

Want that “glow from within” look? Then you, my friend, should consider cream blush.

Cream blush, especially when layered between liquid foundation and powder, gives your cheeks a gorgeous, soft focus glow. I can’t think of anyone this wouldn’t be flattering on. Cream blush is great for dry or mature skin, and it also works on oily skin (as long as you set it with a powder blush).

Here’s how I do it:

After most of eye makeup is done, I put on a primer on my skin (if you aren’t oily and/or don’t have a problem with face makeup fading, you can skip this step). While the primer is setting in, I do my mascara. Foundation goes on next. I either use a sheer foundation, like a MAC or Make Up For Ever Face & Body foundation, or I use a medium coverage foundation, like Make Up For Ever HD Foundation. Sometimes I use a medium-heavy coverage foundation, like NARS Sheer Glow, and cut it with some Face & Body. Whatever you choose, as long as it is liquid, you’ll get the desired “glowing” result. I use my hands to apply the foundation, then I buff it into the skin. My absolute favorite brush for that is the Real Techniques Buffing Brush.

Next, I apply cream blush to the apples of my cheeks, using my fingers and blending slightly upward onto the cheekbones. I love Sonia Kashuk Creme Blushes, MAC Cremeblend Blushes and Make Up For Ever HD blushes.

If I have used a Face & Body only, I then go over the entire face with Benefit Hello Flawless powder foundation. I use my Buffing Brush to press the Hello Flawless onto the skin. I avoid buffing it at this point, especially over the cheeks, because I don’t want to move the cream blush. Cream blush is a slippery little fella, that’s just the nature of the product.

If I have used a fuller coverage foundation, I do the same step, but I use a powder instead of Hello Flawless. My current favorite powders are Make Up For Ever Super Matte Loose Powder , MAC Blot Powder and Rimmel Stay Matte Powder.

After that, I apply my contour (usually Benefit Hoola or NARS Laguna). Then comes the powder blush. I most often reach for Make Up For Ever Sculpting Blush, NARS Blush or MAC Powder Blush in a peach or pink shade. Adding that layer of powder blush amps up the cream blush and kind of seals it into place. I have oily skin, and I find that my cheek color really stays on when I do this. Not to mention, people always seem to compliment my “glowing” skin when I do this look.

Cream blush is ideal for dry winter skin, and a pretty, glowing look is perfect for Valentine’s Day. Give it a try!

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Winter Skin Warrior

Combination skin–the best of both worlds, right? Us combo girls shine in the summer (literally) and flake out in the winter (hopefully not literally). Every year, two things happen to me when the weather starts to gets cold. 1) I beat myself up for deciding to move from Florida back to New England several years ago and 2) My skin starts to dry out and flake off. The drying out is typically concentrated on my chin and forehead, but my whole face usually feels at least a little dry and my skin looks dull.

But not this year! I have a new skincare regimen that has saved me from the woes of winter skin. My secrets? Read on…

Every morning, I use Lancome Bienfiat Multi-Vital moisturizer. It’s thick but it absorbs quickly–no sticky-ness or tight feeling. It is quite perfume-y, but because it works so well, that doesn’t bother me. If you are sensitive to heavily scented products, another good moisturizer for dry skin is Total Moisture Cream by Benefit or Lait-Creme Concentre by Embyrolise.

I play with more dramatic makeup looks in the winter, but that has nothing to do with my skin. The only skin-related makeup change is that I need less powder touchups during the day. I also tend to use cream blush more often in the winter, because my skin is less oily, so the product stays on longer.

I cleanse once every day, at night, and I use Fine Herbal Cleanser True Geranium & Lavender by Farmaesthetics. An esthetician friend of mine recommended this for my combination skin and I love it. In years past, I have switched over to a creamier cleanser during the winter months, but I have not needed to do that this year.

Every night, I use Garnier Skin Renew Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. I don’t think it makes any difference in terms of my combination skin (but it is an AMAZING product for lightening pigmentation), but I am including it because it is part of my nightly routine. After that has absorbed, I apply Garnier Ultra Lift 2-in-1 Wrinkle Reducer Serum + Moisturizer. This product feels amazing and I do think it makes my skin softer.

But the biggest change I have made to my skincare routine is consistent exfoliation. I exfoliate with the Laura Mercier Face Polish every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and I have not seen one patch of dry skin on my face this fall/winter. It’s a miracle! I’ve always recommended consistent exfoliation, but I am ashamed to say I don’t always practice what I preach. In the past, I sometimes only remembered to exfoliate once each week, or once every other week, Although that made a difference, my newfound commitment to exfoliation has really paid off.

If you have dry skin and it’s driving you nuts, give this routine a try for a few weeks. I think you’ll notice a difference.

Have a beautiful day 🙂

The Truth About The “Dewy” Look

As a makeup artist, I get a lot of repeat requests. Smokey eyes, bronzed skin and black winged liner are three of the most popular. Lately, I’ve been getting a lot of requests for “dewy skin.” So I suppose this is perfect time to give you the real scoop on that look.

The idea behind dewy skin is that it looks young, fresh and not made up. But like most makeup looks that people think look “natural,” it actually takes time, the correct products and a few other factors you may not have access to to get it right.

The best way to get the dewy look is to have a good base to start with. And by that, I mean good skin. Dry, uneven or dehydrated skin is not going to work here. If you regularly cleanse, exfoliate (this is huge) and moisturize, then you have a better chance of achieving the look. This is a good habit to have whether you want the dewy look or not, so get to it!

Before we go on, I want to preface this by saying that if you have oily skin, this is probably not the look for you. Adding shine to an oily skin is going to make you look, well, greasy. If you have oily skin and you’re using–but not over-using–oil absorbing and mattifying products, you probably still have some of your skin’s natural oils coming through anyway, so you may look dewy without trying. If that sounds like you, you can stop reading right here (unless my writing has you entranced).

If your skin is dry, normal, or normal to dry, and you have a consistent cleanse-exfoliate-moisturize routine, read on. If you have dry skin, you can start with a moisturizer for normal to dry skin (like Benefit Total Moisture Facial Cream or Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre). Normal or normal to dry skin, just use whatever moisturizer works for you (Ole Henriksen makes great moisturizers for a variety of skin types and concerns). You could also start with a serum like Tarte’s Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Illuminating Serum. This stuff gives some serious luminosity. I would avoid oil-free moisturizers for this look.

The next step would be a luminizing lotion or primer. Illamsqua makes a fabulous primer for dewy looks, called the Satin Primer. The Tarina Tarantino Pearl Glow Primer in Pearl is a good one too. Wonderglow by Charlotte Tilbury is another great choice.

Next, you’ll want to use a sheer foundation. I recommend MAC Face & Body Foundation. It leaves the skin with a very dewy finish, and feels lightweight.

Apply a liquid or cream highlighter to the cheekbones and browbones (and above the Cupid’s Bow, if you’re feeling daring). I like Benefit Watts Up for light to medium skin and MAC Cream Colour Base in Improper Copper for medium to dark skin. Use translucent powder only under the eyes and on the nose. You don’t want to over powder, because you’ll mattify the skin, which is the opposite of the dewy look.

Use a cream blush for cheek color, as they tend to have more of a dewy finish than powder blushes. I like the Make Up For Ever HD Blushes for this.

On lips, use a sheer gloss like Lancome Juicy tubes. You want something lightweight and almost watery looking, if that makes sense. I’d skip lipliner if you want to stay true to the look.

Since the rest of the face has that glowy, dewy quality, I prefer to “anchor” it with defined eyes (as Hayden and Camilla did in the pictures above). You can go dewy all over, like the model above did, but I don’t think that look translates well in real life for most people (it’s different for runway or editorial, which I’ll get into). So for eyes, I would go with a slightly shimmery, natural color or a metallic shadow in the brown or gold family, and black liner at the upper lashline and waterline. Go ahead and contour the eye with a matte color slightly darker than your skintone. (If you have hooded eyes, skip this step.)

And you’re done! Feeling dewy? No? Well, let me tell you truth about dewy looks…

When you see a dewy-faced actress onscreen, please know that she had the advantage of professional lighting, camera lenses, and a makeup artist to touch her up after each take. That celeb on the red carpet? She spent hours with a makeup artist beforehand and may even have one with her to touch her up throughout the event. And there’s a good chance she has the money to spend on high quality skincare services and products. Same deal with models, who are also often genetic freaks with amazing skin.

And the models and celebs you see in magazines? Please, they have it made. A pro makeup artist, photographer, and lighting, constant touchups during the shoot and Photoshop after. Anyone can look dewy after all of that.

So my point is, don’t think you’re doing it wrong if your dewy makeup doesn’t come out like Hayden’s or Camilla’s. Just use this post and those pictures as guidelines and give it your best. You’ll do great!

Have a beautiful day 🙂

T-Zone Trouble?

It would be great to have normal, always clear, flawless skin, but I haven’t been blessed with skin perfection. I have combination skin, which gets pretty t-zone-oily in the summer and dried-out-peeling in the winter. But like most things in life, I’ve tried to find a way to use my skin type to my advantage. Having this combo skin allows me to, at different points in the year, test out products and techniques for oily and dry skin.

Where I live (in New England), summer is over. But the memories of what I have to do in the warmer months to fake balanced skin are still fresh in my mind. So if you have oily skin year-round, or just seasonally, read on!

1) The first step in most of my makeup applications is eye primer. If you have oily skin on your face, chances are your eyelids are oily too. Since that’s part of the reason eyeshadows can crease and fade (other culprits may be creamy formulas and cheapo shadows in general), an eye primer can make a huge difference in how your eye makeup wears during the day. Unless your eyelids are very dry, I recommend an eye primer. I use Too Faced Shadow Insurance, sometimes topped with a MAC Paint Pot if a client has especially oily lids.

2) If I have a long day coming up and always for wedding clients with oily skin, I use two skin primers. One is the De-Slick Oil Control Makeup Setting Spray by Urban Decay (I use this as a primer, and then at the end to set makeup). I also use a second one, usually Laura Mercier Oil Free Foundation Primer. One of the big problems with oily skin is that the oils from the skin break down products, causing them to wear off more quickly than they would on a normal or dry skin. Using a primer first puts an extra layer between the skin and the foundation. The ingredients in that primer layer are meant to absorb some of the oils and keep them from going through the foundation, which causes it to wear off.

3) I use liquid foundation, mainly because I don’t like powder foundation as oily skin can sometimes streak through powder foundation. I usually use the Make Up For Ever HD foundation, but if you’re looking for a different liquid foundation, something matte or medium-full coverage is your best bet. You want to stay away from anything with light-reflecting particles, as they can add shine to your skin.

4) To powder oily skin, I love using Make Up For Ever Super Matte Loose Powder on oily areas. Powders sets the makeup and cuts shine, so it’s a must for oily skin.

5) To touch up during the day, you can go with oil blotting sheets (I’ve found them all to be the same, so I just buy the cheapest) if your skin is seasonally or slightly oily. For a very oily skin, you might want to try using a powder foundation as your touchup during the day. Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay In Place Powder is a good option, as is MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation. Using a powder foundation in areas where your foundation has faded will cover the fading and even your skin out.

So, those are the makeup techniques I’ve found to be the most helpful. It’s also really important to take good care of your skin, regardless of what your skin type is.  If you have oily skin, you’ll want to look for a cleanser made for oily skin, and use a lotion as opposed to a cream for your moisturizer. For night time, you’re better off using a serum than a cream. Exfoliation is important because it will help remove some of the surface oils and a mask that contains clay can help absorb the oils.

If you’ve got oily skin and have any tips, please share!

Have a beautiful day 🙂