Whaddya Mean, Tightlining?

No matter what industry you work in, there’s technical talk.  Teachers speak of IEPs, real estate agents discuss easements, carpenters talk about risers and treads, etc. Us makeup artists have our own language too…and it just happens to be the prettiest one.

Sometimes I refer to things forgetting that I’m speaking in makeupese and some people might not know what the hell I’m talking about. So I’m going to do for you what Big L did for street slang–I’m gonna school you.

Airbrush Makeup: A liquefied form of makeup applied with a device that sprays out product. Can give skin a flawless look, depending on the product and application technique. Tends to be very long lasting.

Brush Roll: The pouch used to hold makeup brushes.

Cat Eye: A dramatic eyeliner look that’s thickest and angled at the outer corners.

Color Wash: Using one shade of eyeshadow for both eyelid and crease.

Contour: Using a dark color to make something recede. Used to minimize the width or length of a feature.

Crease: The space above the eyelid and under the browbone. Hooded eyes and monolids don’t have a visible crease when the eyes are open.

Cupid’s Bow: The double curve above the center of the top lip. Highlighting the skin above it makes lips look slightly fuller.

Fallout: Usually used in reference to eyeshadow. It’s any shadow that falls under the eye or onto the face.  It’s the reason why makeup artists like me do the eyes first!

Flare Lashes: Also known as clusters or individuals, these false lashes come in groups of 6-8 lashes instead of strips that are the length of the lashline.  They come in different lengths and thicknesses and can be built up.

Highlight: Using a light color to draw attention to a feature or area of the face.  Commonly used on cheekbones, browbones, inner corners of eyes and above the Cupid’s Bow.

Illuminating: Products that are “illuminating” contain some kind of light reflecting particles.  Great for places you want to highlight.  Stay away from illuminating products if you have oily skin, because they can make the skin look more oily.

Kit: A makeup artist’s supply of tools and products.

Matte: Products with absolutely no shimmer or shine.

MUA: Stands for “Make Up Artist.”

Non-comedogenic: Means that the product (supposedly) will not clog pores.

Outer V: Used in reference to the section of the eye from the outer end of the crease to the outer end of the lashline.  Drawing a little “v” here (with the point going towards the hairline) works well with a lot of eye makeup looks.

Primer: A face, eye or lip product put on prior to foundation, eye makeup or lip color to help the products stay on longer. They also give a good base and help provide a smoother, more even surface for the products.

Tightlining: Lining the upper inside eyelid with a pencil eyeliner, usually in a black shade. This can help make top lashes look fuller.

Transfer: When a mascara or eyeliner smudges onto the eyelid, crease, or browbone before it has dried.

Sheer: Minimal coverage products that have a hint of color, so that you can still see through to the skin.

Waterline: The inside lower eyelid. Lining here with a dark color makes the look more dramatic and makes the eyes look smaller. An off-white liner here will open up the eyes.

Winged Liner: Eyeliner that extends past the end of the eye on the upper lashline and is angled upwards, giving the illusion of a lifted and elongated shape.

Hope I’ve decoded some of the mystery for you.  Please let me know if I’ve missed anything!

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Pin Up Girl Look

There are two looks I absolutely LOVE doing on myself and other people. One is the Smokey Eye, which I’ll discuss in another post, and the other is the Pin Up Girl.

The Pin Up Girl is all about flawless skin, black eyeliner, full lashes and of course, red lips. This is a classic look and a lot of people can pull it off.  I won’t lie–it helps to be wearing the right outfit and hairstyle if you want to rock this look. This is a specific makeup look from a particular era,  so you’ve got to follow through with the whole look, or at least look polished.

Here are the products I most often use for the Pin Up Girl look:

Laura Mercier Foundation Primer

Make Up For Ever Camouflage Cream in Green 17 to cancel out any redness (if needed)

Make Up For Ever HD Foundation

MAC Select Pro Longwear Concealer

Make Up For Ever HD Finish powder, buffed all over the face with a buffing brush

Benefit Hoola to contour

MAC Pink Swoon blush on apples of cheeks

Appropriate color brow powder to fill in brows (a must for this look!)

MAC Paint Pot in Painterly as eyeshadow base

On the lids, MAC Blanc Type eyeshadow

In the crease, MAC eyeshadow in Wedge. I also apply a thin line of it at the lower lashline.

MAC Fascinating Eye Kohl (white liner) in the bottom waterline

MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack gel liner to create the perfect winged liner

Dior Diorshow mascara, concentrated outer corner of top lashes

Ardell false lashes, usually flares, on outer two thirds of top lashes

L’Oreal Colour Riche Lipliner in Always Red to line and line fill in lips

MAC Russian Red, Ruby Woo or NARS Jungle Red lipstick

I often draw in a mole with a dark brown or black eye pencil

I’ve included a picture of  Pin Up Girl look I did for a photoshoot.

Hope this post was helpful!

Have a beautiful day 🙂

Photography:  Robert Hare Photography

Makeup:  Allison Barbera

Hair:  Luis Feliciano & Stamatia Anthanasiou

Model: Kirsten Glavin